Oct. 15th, 2016 03:52 pm

Corsets

mrs_maupin: (midona)

I figure I'd do a little bit of dream-sewing and write out the different ideas I have in my mind for future corsetry projects.


  • green silk underbust with straps. To go over a white underdress with small bustle. Simple shape, probably no excessive waist reduction, detachable straps that cross in the back, matching ribbon-embroidered garter. For the 2017 runway show.

  • gold and red corset for M (who was Ursula last year). The first idea was an overbust with a meandering top edge, but I am thinking about making this short 1906 corset instead.

  • leftover jean's corset - to recycle all the old torn jeans the Home Geek gave me. Probably something with gores, and small panels, and there will be some appliqués or flowers ot patch pockets.

  • white and silver corset to go with the Eva skirt. The existing top is really really tiny and I have a model who'd like to wear it, but only fits the skirt. The silvery linen would look really pretty on a corset...

  • Titania : I am still scrambling for ideas, but there will be SOME form of corset in this as well...

  • pink silk satin corset - for me, in the most luscious silk satin I have ever touched. Probably to be used in the Ballet project

  • a corset for Lady Darkstone for her ballet themed-outfit

  • I'd really like a real edwardian one of those days...

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mrs_maupin: (midona)

This is the vibe I am getting from the blush and black combination on the 1890s riding corset. The addition of lace only strenghtened the theme.20161011_16454920161014_133900
The corset is actually done, but I didn't manage to get good pictures of it yet. It is raining cats and dogs outside and the light is gloomy at best.
It is not as comfy as the black overbust I made this summer, especially when I don't move much, but it is amazingly nice to wear on a walk - which was sort of the idea. It is supposed to go under an 1890s hiking outfit at some point, after all.
It gives me between 7 and 10 centimeters down from my natural waist (depending on how much said natural waist expanded after a meal of fresh stuffed pasta and how tight I lace it). I know I can get down a further 2 to 3 centimeters, but that requires a really different patterning.
Now of course I have tons of idea for the next corset I want to make, or rather the five or six I want to make, oooooops. At least I am enjoying having some creative output again !

September has been really hard on me, stress, bad news, looming bad news that took ages to arrive... that really slowed me down and killed any motivation I had. The riding corset, even thought it was nowhere on my "to sew now" list, helped me get back into the groove. I have also joined Inktober - a bit late, but still. I managed a quick drawing per day for the last week. It is good to get back into the drawing habit. I am forcing myself to make this quick and easy and to not overthink it. Maybe I'll get back to more intricate stuff later, maybe not, it feels good to make things a little looser  and put away my perfectionnism once in a while.
20161012_160025
So this happened, and now I kind of want to make myself a tartan, victorianesque young McGonagall outfit... It hit a record number of likes on IG, too, which I really didn't expect.

I have started the Halloween stuff for the kids - Heimlich's bat cape just needs a closure. I have to make him a mask and arm braces after that, then I'll just wait on the clothes I need to customize for the rest of their outfits.

mrs_maupin: (midona)

After a second mock-up, I decided the fit of the corset was good enough and I just went for the real fabric,  a "dot" coutil with tiny black polka dots on a dusty rose ground. I am experimenting with single layer construction, placing the (contrasting) boning channel on the outside on top of the seams. It is looking good so far.
20161007_112709 20161008_153119 20161008_182302 20161010_221733
The only hissue was my iron deciding to start spitting out brown gunk, twice on the corset, once on the cotton organdi I need to iron to make Chardon's petticoats. I tried giving it a good cleaning but it doesn't seem to be enough, and, well, it's kind of old. I can't recall very precisely, but somewhere around 7 years is not too bad for an iron I use daily, one that has made quite a few jumps from the ironing table to the floor. The plate is dented and a little bent, the plastic looks half-burnt in some places... I am probably updating to a steam plant this time, and one with a scale deposit control thingie.

I'd probably have bought it yesterday if I hadn't had a sick Heimlich with me. First cold of the season, and as usual it turned into a full blown asthma attack. Off to the doc now, as it's no much better today.

Second rehearsal for the 2017 show was on Sunday, and we all stumbled through the Feurfest polka. It can only get btter, right ?

mrs_maupin: (midona)

I have a mock-up ! And it... mostly fits. There was some really odd sticking out at the bottom front, but it was actually an easy fix. The mock-up turned out a little big all around - although not evenly too big, so I have lots of small alterations to make.
Right now I took it in at various places (front and back at the bottom. The top has this slightly weird line that goes up between the breasts but doesn't really support the on the sides, I took it in very slightly but I'm not 100% sure of how it is supposed to fit there.
The waist ended up bigger than what I was aiming for. I think it is partly inherent to the cut of this corset, as it wasn't meant to be laced super tightly. I still feel I could go down an inch or two, but I'd need to change the lines over the hips so... I'm torn between following the original shape and making something that I find more flattering on my body.

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Sep. 7th, 2016 10:05 am

Patterning

mrs_maupin: (midona)

Serre-taille en cours de patronageI've got the 1890's riding corset all patterned and traced out. I didn't go as far as mocking up yesterday as I had hoped, though.
I used a mix of their intructions and of the drafting method I've been taught this summer - starting from my true measurements to place the waist, under-bust and mid-hip line. For the rest you just need one vertical line per panel, and the instructiosn tell you how to divide the width for each panel from there.

I also cleaned out the bodice pattern for the Chardon gown (grey silk organza on white ottoman, big round crinoline of doom), now I'm just waiting for the silk organza to arrive.

The other fabrics came in jut yesterday morning (like, lightning fast !), with a HUGE envelope of swatches. I think I have about a swatch of half the fabrics my provider carries - definitely of the most interesting ones. And I finally have a swatch book of their tulle with the color codes on them. Because there's nothing harder than trying to differentiate a very fine peach tulle from a very fine camel tulle when all you have is a 1 x 2 inches swatch.

Yesterday I had a lovely day with Lady Darkstone - we were supposed to cut tulle, but neither of us was feeling it, so we did some drawing, I traced off the pattern pieces for the corset, and we talked a lot and drank tea.
We're looking at working on some art togetehr in he near future, depending on how fast I work through my bridal fair gowns.

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Sep. 2nd, 2016 11:30 pm

Dance

mrs_maupin: (midona)

It is one of those weird periods where the same themes suddenly pop up simultaneously in the most random places. One (but not the only one) of them has been dance.
Toad wants to start ballet lessons. The 2017 runway show is all about dance. My gift to Lady Darkstone for her birthday was a ticket to Swan Lake in February. Foundations Revealed competition theme for 2017 is ballet... Apparently FB ha spicked up on this because it keeps offering me to buy tickets to various dance shows.
So, since it looks like I won't be able to make it to the printmakign course this year (thanks new course schedule conflicting with Heimlich's schedule), I decided what the hell, I might as well pick up ballet again. Out of all the dance offers in my area, it's the one that tempts me the most, that has a schedule I can work with, and that doesn't require the HG to sign up with me (because apparently he has developped a strong aversion to dancing... *sigh*).

I have finished editing the pictures from the shoot with [livejournal.com profile] heileen.
I am not too unsatisfied with the pictures I took. I am slowly, very slowly making progress at this. And Heileen looks fabulous.
IMG_0604 IMG_667
I have another shoot ( my old 1895 green and gold ballgown) coming up in September, then Ursula in October. I'd love to shoot Effie Trinket, my Florentine and Florence (florentine-inspired wedding dress in white and gold), possibly before the end of October.
I'm amazed at how far photoshoots have brought me since I started reaching out to models and photographers. and also at how much of my time it takes up to organize them ! I haven't even scheduled half of the shoots for this year's collection, and here I am starting to work on next year's...

I finally ordered two different fabrics from PureSilks, I hope they work together - they should from the description. If not I'll have to make them, somehow. II have another fabric order pending from a local supplier for things like duchess satin and ottoman - they're cheaper, almost local and polyester. I'll work with dead dino for dresses that will be worn multiple times by hurried models, trailed through the mud, exposed to sweat, make-up,... thankyouverymuch.

I mostly mocked-up the wedding gown for Miss C (sleeves need to be sewn and attached to the jacket, no skirt yet). Palanning to get that done early next week.
I finally finished my bathing suit's bloomers. The tunic needs hooks and eyes, the waistband needs some form of closure, and then it will be done... in time for next summer.
I meant to start on the 1895's riding corset in the "Corset for the modern body" book, but it is gettign too late to get past the measurements stage. I'll see tomorrow how I can use the book without tracing a complete body block - am I the only one who thinks it is a bit much to trace a complete block with dart over the bust, armscye and neckline, to draft a corset ? Anyway, I'll keep you posted.

mrs_maupin: (midona)

While the bulk of work is done on Perceneige, I still have a bazillion smaller things to do. Like insert the CB zipper. Finish the CB seam and hem. Add ribbons inside to cover the raw edges of the embroidered net (but that could wait a little, as long as the dress is wearable).

The first pictures for the corset were mostly blurry. I think we got some better ones with the second shoot. I have two decent ones, though :
IMG_1150 Corset moderne en coutil noir
I haven't had time to download the second shoot's results, so fingers crossed on this front.

Time has flewn by fast this week - I think Monday and Tuesday were pretty much the only days I had to really work. And on Thursday the kids came home, so I had a lot to tidy and clean up, and after that work was pretty much not possible with them + my MIL who stays for a few days. I do try to work but I eep getting ditracted, or remember I should socialize, or the phone rings and I have a long talk with a friend, or let's play monopoly, or I get lured away by the prospect of photoshoots.
Which is great, becauseit means I get to do them and I get new pictures for my portfolio (and, let's admit it, I just love doing them). But it can be a challenge to find a location, organize everyone, finish the dresses... I should really get back to Sarah and Johanne about our next shoot, I have one coming up with Anouk, and I need to check if we can work with both the Darkstones (= "Florence" dress, finish waistcoat for Lord Darkstone) or just Eysmé (= Effie Trinket), and at any rate I have to make contact with a possible location. A big group project is alos coming up, a week-end with lots of people in a beautiful old mansion, several models and photographers, maybe we can finally find the time to make the victorian cartes de visite happen then. Only it will be during a busy period and it's over 5hours away by road, yay ! (but the place has a costume musem I have never seen... I was instantly sold). Then I have my Ursula begging for a shoot, too.

And I still have a good part of my last shoot's picture to edit :
Lady Tremaine IMG_0722b Lady Tremaine IMG_0696
First I discoevered some pictures I liked were blurry, or grainy, but those I am pretty happy about. [livejournal.com profile] heileen looks phenomenal in these, and I'm not too ashamed of my editing skills. I might go back and try something more artsy another time.

mrs_maupin: (1890s)

As I mentioned previously, I brought back a bunch of old fashion plates from my trip, and I hav started scanning them Ifigured, since I posted this one on the blog, I might as well share it here as well :
Le Moniteur des Dames et des Demoiselles

I took it because it has a wedding dress, but the more I look at it, the more I'm in love with the blue dress. Me. Crinoline. Love. Stop the press ! I might be getting an itch to make myself an 1860s dress !

The black coutil corset has a (not yet attached) modesty panel and a matching storage pouch.
I dug out Perceneige and worked on assembling the skirt - I'm about halway done with it. So. Much. Width at the hem ! I need to check how it moves, see if it needs a horsehair braid, or even a small ruffle ont he lining to hold it out.

Yes I know I said I wanted to work on the bathing suit, but a) the chances I acutally get to take pictures of it this summer are slim anyway and b) Perceneige takes up more floor space until it is done. There goes my motivation !

mrs_maupin: (midona)

I finished the corset (except maybe for a hook and eye at the top CF - and the modesty panel which I don't feel motivated to make right now :p )
IMG_1087
This is the best I could do with self timer today - I couldn't be bothered to dig ou the tripod and make a better photoshoot. I will try to make something with the Home geek, maybe tonight.

Now of course I want to make another one. Or two or three. Test out the patterning method, see how it works with historical shapes... I am very tempted to enter FR's 2017 competition. I love the idea of a ballet-inspired outfit with a pretty corset. I could use Lady Darkstone as a guinea pig for corset making AND make a photoshoot with her, since she has some ballet experience. Now of course I am tempted to make something dark and gothy,with black and deep fuschia. But the practical pro in me says a lighter shade would work better in my portfolio - maybe a peach/nude ?
Of course, it might just be a crazy idea and not doable with my schedule. But still... I want to make mor epretty corsets !

mrs_maupin: (midona)

When my teeth get clenched from concentrating a bit too much, and the tea gets cold, maybe it means I need a "let's update to LJ" break.

This is the corset I patterned and started at the corsetry course. It is not meant to be historical, although I did use some victorian and edwardian inspiration. The outer sheel is black coutil (plain weave, with floral brocade coutil at the hip gores). The lining is an off-white and black stripe.
Today I have assembled it, put grommets in it, filed and inserted the bones. Here are the first pictures, graciously (if not very vertically) taken by the Home Geek. With optional BB8 mug, because it's my new mug and I love it. Not everything shows, because, well, black fabric !
Overbust noir Overbust noir Overbust noir
Front :
Nice nipped in waist, good support for the breasts (and they don't want to escape either).
The part over the busc gapes a little, I am thinking about adding a little hook and eye to keep it in place.
The white lining peeks out from under the hook side of the busc, because once again I forgot to cut the CF lining piece in the same fabric as the outer shell. Too late to fix it, and I was out of fabric anyway.
Not visible in the pictures, a slight wrinkle on the second piece, under the outside of the boob.

Side :
Wrinkle on the third piece, right at the waist. Ugh !

Back :
Again, big wrinkle at the waist.
The lacing gap is what I wanted, I plan to add a modesty panel.
Visible pants line in the hip gores, not cool !

On the whole I am very pleased with how it turned out. I is *extremely* comfy to wear, I feel pretty sexy in it (the HG seems to agree).
Some of the wrinkles will disappear once the bones are secure in their casings, but I really feel like the third and fourth piece, at least, need more bones. The brocade coutil in the hip gores isn't as strong as the plain weave one, the lining has no body at all, so I can't leave those big hip gores with just one bone.
We worked with small spiral steels all around, but I'm not convinced by how the center back looks. I am putting german boning there - and at all the bones I am adding, too.

It looks like I might be able to finish this today... minus the flossing, because I don't think I can make a corset for myself and not add flossing. Flossing is pretty ! And I feel all this black si a little... plain by itself.

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