mrs_maupin: (midona)

So I finished the Perceneige dress. Or at least brought it to "wearable" : it needs one hook and eye at CB, and about a tousand meters bias binding to cover the net's raw edges inside. But it was done enough for pictures on the dress dummy, and since the HG was off climbing with the kids, it was just the perfect day for that.
perceneige2 Perceneige Perceneige

Then I edited those - they're not perfect, my set-up really is a bit too narrow for good full-length pics.
And while I was at it I edited the corset pics as well.
IMG_1176 IMG_1177 IMG_1180
I realized I could have taken them without the t-shirt underneath. I guess I am so used to historical mid-busts I didn't consider another option... I will probably wear it like this most of the time, anyway.

Blog posts coming for both items, just not tonight, tonight I showed Zootopia to thte HG and now I'm going to crash in bed and re-read Dragonriders of Pern for the umpteenth time.
BTW, all pictures are actually taken in the exact same spot, I was just a tad lazy for the corset and didn't put up all the background, so you see some of the dolls and fabrics instead.

mrs_maupin: (1890s)

As I mentioned previously, I brought back a bunch of old fashion plates from my trip, and I hav started scanning them Ifigured, since I posted this one on the blog, I might as well share it here as well :
Le Moniteur des Dames et des Demoiselles

I took it because it has a wedding dress, but the more I look at it, the more I'm in love with the blue dress. Me. Crinoline. Love. Stop the press ! I might be getting an itch to make myself an 1860s dress !

The black coutil corset has a (not yet attached) modesty panel and a matching storage pouch.
I dug out Perceneige and worked on assembling the skirt - I'm about halway done with it. So. Much. Width at the hem ! I need to check how it moves, see if it needs a horsehair braid, or even a small ruffle ont he lining to hold it out.

Yes I know I said I wanted to work on the bathing suit, but a) the chances I acutally get to take pictures of it this summer are slim anyway and b) Perceneige takes up more floor space until it is done. There goes my motivation !

mrs_maupin: (midona)

I finished the corset (except maybe for a hook and eye at the top CF - and the modesty panel which I don't feel motivated to make right now :p )
This is the best I could do with self timer today - I couldn't be bothered to dig ou the tripod and make a better photoshoot. I will try to make something with the Home geek, maybe tonight.

Now of course I want to make another one. Or two or three. Test out the patterning method, see how it works with historical shapes... I am very tempted to enter FR's 2017 competition. I love the idea of a ballet-inspired outfit with a pretty corset. I could use Lady Darkstone as a guinea pig for corset making AND make a photoshoot with her, since she has some ballet experience. Now of course I am tempted to make something dark and gothy,with black and deep fuschia. But the practical pro in me says a lighter shade would work better in my portfolio - maybe a peach/nude ?
Of course, it might just be a crazy idea and not doable with my schedule. But still... I want to make mor epretty corsets !

mrs_maupin: (midona)

I am finishing the flossing on the black coutil corset. It is in bright red and a light ochre that reads like golden yellow on the black ground. Now I am very happy I did not go for the red taffetas for the binding, that really would have been too Harry-Potter-y.
Now I know my fabric choice for the binding can hurt some sensibilities, but it's definitely more me (it's a little bit like this one).

Apart from adding the binding and doing most of the flossing on the corset, I also placed two large orders for new tools. It's funny how some years back I thought I was pretty settled in terms of sewing tools, and recently I realized I could still upgrade. A lot.
I discovered japanese high-carbon scissors. As much as I loved my Fiskars, they don't measure up now I have tested the Kai. That price tag is definitely justified. Then rulers, anew french curve, finer  stuff to mark my fabric, a bigger, firmer ham and needles ! I have the hardest time finidng needles I love and am confortable sewing with. I had two packs, inherited from my granny, but I'm down to just one now (they bend with use and usually break after a while, and I lost one or two). I love long, fine needles that DON"T EAT MY THREAD. The latter part has been problematic in all the needles I have bought recently.

mrs_maupin: (midona)

When my teeth get clenched from concentrating a bit too much, and the tea gets cold, maybe it means I need a "let's update to LJ" break.

This is the corset I patterned and started at the corsetry course. It is not meant to be historical, although I did use some victorian and edwardian inspiration. The outer sheel is black coutil (plain weave, with floral brocade coutil at the hip gores). The lining is an off-white and black stripe.
Today I have assembled it, put grommets in it, filed and inserted the bones. Here are the first pictures, graciously (if not very vertically) taken by the Home Geek. With optional BB8 mug, because it's my new mug and I love it. Not everything shows, because, well, black fabric !
Overbust noir Overbust noir Overbust noir
Front :
Nice nipped in waist, good support for the breasts (and they don't want to escape either).
The part over the busc gapes a little, I am thinking about adding a little hook and eye to keep it in place.
The white lining peeks out from under the hook side of the busc, because once again I forgot to cut the CF lining piece in the same fabric as the outer shell. Too late to fix it, and I was out of fabric anyway.
Not visible in the pictures, a slight wrinkle on the second piece, under the outside of the boob.

Side :
Wrinkle on the third piece, right at the waist. Ugh !

Back :
Again, big wrinkle at the waist.
The lacing gap is what I wanted, I plan to add a modesty panel.
Visible pants line in the hip gores, not cool !

On the whole I am very pleased with how it turned out. I is *extremely* comfy to wear, I feel pretty sexy in it (the HG seems to agree).
Some of the wrinkles will disappear once the bones are secure in their casings, but I really feel like the third and fourth piece, at least, need more bones. The brocade coutil in the hip gores isn't as strong as the plain weave one, the lining has no body at all, so I can't leave those big hip gores with just one bone.
We worked with small spiral steels all around, but I'm not convinced by how the center back looks. I am putting german boning there - and at all the bones I am adding, too.

It looks like I might be able to finish this today... minus the flossing, because I don't think I can make a corset for myself and not add flossing. Flossing is pretty ! And I feel all this black si a little... plain by itself.


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