mrs_maupin: (midona)

For some reason I am incredibly tired lately. I vegged out yesterday, and today I was only productive in the morning. I did just a little bit of sewing in the afternoon, but not much. I've had a mild headache all day, not excruciating but enough to get on my nerves, and to make me nauseous if I was a bit too concentrated. Here's hoping it disappears with a good night's sleep.

I put up a post with pictures of one of the small black capes Lady Darkstone entrusted me with.
IMG_9539
It is some sort of fueled wool, with soutache and crepe trim. It is a ready-made item (coming all the way from Paris to a village in the mountain), and we're having a hard time reconciling the date I'd want to put it with any deaths in the owner's family. The earliest death we could find was 1918, and that seems pretty far for the style. I'd appreciate any input ;)

Aug. 16th, 2016 01:55 pm

Meme !

mrs_maupin: (midona)

I just typed a whole lot of business stuff, and I certainly deserve a little break.

1. Do you like blue cheese?

Read more... )


I'm alive ! I'd have a hard time doing anything else without THAT.

mrs_maupin: (midona)

So I finished the Perceneige dress. Or at least brought it to "wearable" : it needs one hook and eye at CB, and about a tousand meters bias binding to cover the net's raw edges inside. But it was done enough for pictures on the dress dummy, and since the HG was off climbing with the kids, it was just the perfect day for that.
perceneige2 Perceneige Perceneige

Then I edited those - they're not perfect, my set-up really is a bit too narrow for good full-length pics.
And while I was at it I edited the corset pics as well.
IMG_1176 IMG_1177 IMG_1180
I realized I could have taken them without the t-shirt underneath. I guess I am so used to historical mid-busts I didn't consider another option... I will probably wear it like this most of the time, anyway.

Blog posts coming for both items, just not tonight, tonight I showed Zootopia to thte HG and now I'm going to crash in bed and re-read Dragonriders of Pern for the umpteenth time.
BTW, all pictures are actually taken in the exact same spot, I was just a tad lazy for the corset and didn't put up all the background, so you see some of the dolls and fabrics instead.

mrs_maupin: (midona)

While the bulk of work is done on Perceneige, I still have a bazillion smaller things to do. Like insert the CB zipper. Finish the CB seam and hem. Add ribbons inside to cover the raw edges of the embroidered net (but that could wait a little, as long as the dress is wearable).

The first pictures for the corset were mostly blurry. I think we got some better ones with the second shoot. I have two decent ones, though :
IMG_1150 Corset moderne en coutil noir
I haven't had time to download the second shoot's results, so fingers crossed on this front.

Time has flewn by fast this week - I think Monday and Tuesday were pretty much the only days I had to really work. And on Thursday the kids came home, so I had a lot to tidy and clean up, and after that work was pretty much not possible with them + my MIL who stays for a few days. I do try to work but I eep getting ditracted, or remember I should socialize, or the phone rings and I have a long talk with a friend, or let's play monopoly, or I get lured away by the prospect of photoshoots.
Which is great, becauseit means I get to do them and I get new pictures for my portfolio (and, let's admit it, I just love doing them). But it can be a challenge to find a location, organize everyone, finish the dresses... I should really get back to Sarah and Johanne about our next shoot, I have one coming up with Anouk, and I need to check if we can work with both the Darkstones (= "Florence" dress, finish waistcoat for Lord Darkstone) or just Eysmé (= Effie Trinket), and at any rate I have to make contact with a possible location. A big group project is alos coming up, a week-end with lots of people in a beautiful old mansion, several models and photographers, maybe we can finally find the time to make the victorian cartes de visite happen then. Only it will be during a busy period and it's over 5hours away by road, yay ! (but the place has a costume musem I have never seen... I was instantly sold). Then I have my Ursula begging for a shoot, too.

And I still have a good part of my last shoot's picture to edit :
Lady Tremaine IMG_0722b Lady Tremaine IMG_0696
First I discoevered some pictures I liked were blurry, or grainy, but those I am pretty happy about. [livejournal.com profile] heileen looks phenomenal in these, and I'm not too ashamed of my editing skills. I might go back and try something more artsy another time.

mrs_maupin: (1890s)

As I mentioned previously, I brought back a bunch of old fashion plates from my trip, and I hav started scanning them Ifigured, since I posted this one on the blog, I might as well share it here as well :
Le Moniteur des Dames et des Demoiselles

I took it because it has a wedding dress, but the more I look at it, the more I'm in love with the blue dress. Me. Crinoline. Love. Stop the press ! I might be getting an itch to make myself an 1860s dress !

The black coutil corset has a (not yet attached) modesty panel and a matching storage pouch.
I dug out Perceneige and worked on assembling the skirt - I'm about halway done with it. So. Much. Width at the hem ! I need to check how it moves, see if it needs a horsehair braid, or even a small ruffle ont he lining to hold it out.

Yes I know I said I wanted to work on the bathing suit, but a) the chances I acutally get to take pictures of it this summer are slim anyway and b) Perceneige takes up more floor space until it is done. There goes my motivation !

mrs_maupin: (midona)

I finished the corset (except maybe for a hook and eye at the top CF - and the modesty panel which I don't feel motivated to make right now :p )
IMG_1087
This is the best I could do with self timer today - I couldn't be bothered to dig ou the tripod and make a better photoshoot. I will try to make something with the Home geek, maybe tonight.

Now of course I want to make another one. Or two or three. Test out the patterning method, see how it works with historical shapes... I am very tempted to enter FR's 2017 competition. I love the idea of a ballet-inspired outfit with a pretty corset. I could use Lady Darkstone as a guinea pig for corset making AND make a photoshoot with her, since she has some ballet experience. Now of course I am tempted to make something dark and gothy,with black and deep fuschia. But the practical pro in me says a lighter shade would work better in my portfolio - maybe a peach/nude ?
Of course, it might just be a crazy idea and not doable with my schedule. But still... I want to make mor epretty corsets !

mrs_maupin: (midona)

I am finishing the flossing on the black coutil corset. It is in bright red and a light ochre that reads like golden yellow on the black ground. Now I am very happy I did not go for the red taffetas for the binding, that really would have been too Harry-Potter-y.
Now I know my fabric choice for the binding can hurt some sensibilities, but it's definitely more me (it's a little bit like this one).

Apart from adding the binding and doing most of the flossing on the corset, I also placed two large orders for new tools. It's funny how some years back I thought I was pretty settled in terms of sewing tools, and recently I realized I could still upgrade. A lot.
I discovered japanese high-carbon scissors. As much as I loved my Fiskars, they don't measure up now I have tested the Kai. That price tag is definitely justified. Then rulers, anew french curve, finer  stuff to mark my fabric, a bigger, firmer ham and needles ! I have the hardest time finidng needles I love and am confortable sewing with. I had two packs, inherited from my granny, but I'm down to just one now (they bend with use and usually break after a while, and I lost one or two). I love long, fine needles that DON"T EAT MY THREAD. The latter part has been problematic in all the needles I have bought recently.


mrs_maupin: (midona)

When my teeth get clenched from concentrating a bit too much, and the tea gets cold, maybe it means I need a "let's update to LJ" break.

This is the corset I patterned and started at the corsetry course. It is not meant to be historical, although I did use some victorian and edwardian inspiration. The outer sheel is black coutil (plain weave, with floral brocade coutil at the hip gores). The lining is an off-white and black stripe.
Today I have assembled it, put grommets in it, filed and inserted the bones. Here are the first pictures, graciously (if not very vertically) taken by the Home Geek. With optional BB8 mug, because it's my new mug and I love it. Not everything shows, because, well, black fabric !
Overbust noir Overbust noir Overbust noir
Front :
Nice nipped in waist, good support for the breasts (and they don't want to escape either).
The part over the busc gapes a little, I am thinking about adding a little hook and eye to keep it in place.
The white lining peeks out from under the hook side of the busc, because once again I forgot to cut the CF lining piece in the same fabric as the outer shell. Too late to fix it, and I was out of fabric anyway.
Not visible in the pictures, a slight wrinkle on the second piece, under the outside of the boob.

Side :
Wrinkle on the third piece, right at the waist. Ugh !

Back :
Again, big wrinkle at the waist.
The lacing gap is what I wanted, I plan to add a modesty panel.
Visible pants line in the hip gores, not cool !

On the whole I am very pleased with how it turned out. I is *extremely* comfy to wear, I feel pretty sexy in it (the HG seems to agree).
Some of the wrinkles will disappear once the bones are secure in their casings, but I really feel like the third and fourth piece, at least, need more bones. The brocade coutil in the hip gores isn't as strong as the plain weave one, the lining has no body at all, so I can't leave those big hip gores with just one bone.
We worked with small spiral steels all around, but I'm not convinced by how the center back looks. I am putting german boning there - and at all the bones I am adding, too.

It looks like I might be able to finish this today... minus the flossing, because I don't think I can make a corset for myself and not add flossing. Flossing is pretty ! And I feel all this black si a little... plain by itself.

Aug. 5th, 2016 11:52 am

Home !

mrs_maupin: (midona)

It was a loooong trip. It was good,. and now I'm feeling a bit weird, alone at home. The luggage is not completely unpacked, the house is a bit of a mess, and the weather is crazy. It's raining and so dark the house feels a bit like a cave. The garden has grown totally wild - we usually count on the summer scorching heat to keep it in check - not this year !

I have around 800 pictures (I think ?) to go through and edit.
New (to me) fashion plates to scan - there was a fleamarket we went to with [livejournal.com profile] heileen, thinking we wouldn't find anything... we almost emptied the "fashion" section of the old plates. We left the ones that were too recent and the (bad) copies. The seller had some nerve, putting a "authentical document" stamp on the back... with a 1989 date for a crinoline dress. And he glued them to the cardboard, I know I will have a hard time taking them out. Let's hope the glue won't do too much damage to the old paper :/

Sewing will start by searching the house. At the end of the trip I realized I was too tired to finish the bathing costume, so I just put it in the HG's suitcase. He also had the corset I started at the corsetry course. Those are the two project I want to finish fast, while I'm still feeling a little like I'm on vacation.

Jun. 16th, 2016 11:26 pm

Daily log

mrs_maupin: (midona)

The Perceneige bodice is coming along nicely. The sequined tulle is almost entirely applied - I just need to figure out sleeves. I'm still not sure I want them.

I started a quick thing - a vest for a photoshoot. I want to make a photoshoot that's more than just one dress, a couple, in dress and suit, and I need to make a few things for the "groom". The pattern is done, it should be fairly straghtforward.

AND... I have recieved my new lens ! And put it to work already. I also got a book to get myself to really work on my photography skills. Haven't downloaded the pictures yet, but it's awesome to be able to shoot in lower light. Will see what the absence of a zoom does to me with time...

mrs_maupin: (midona)

Time, where has it gone ? I have meant to post for day and... bam ! It's Monday already !


  • last Thursday I paid Leti a visit, we strted planning next year's show, and on the way out we drove to a small lingerie shop that was clsing and had some lace cuts to sell. We still have to divide the lot - there are some pretties in there, and I see some yummy trim on corsets in  near future.

  • on Saturday was the yearly big craft fair in town. I handed out loads of cards, and I have an appointment with a potential client tomorrow.

  • bad news is I noticed that one of the dresses I had in my booth during the runway show actually got stained from the water it soaked up, so I have to more dresses to clean.

  • speaking of which, I finally heard back from the dry cleaner I gave fabric samples to, and it doesn't look good for Cruella. I'll go check on the washed samples tomorrow, but they say the black bleeds on the white

  • Hence : Any tips on cleaning silk crepe  at home ?

Today was a never ending list of things to do and places to be. Many phone calls l, planning, making appointments... At least one of them is for a photoshoot on Friday (it WILL NOT rain on Friday, because I SAY SO !)(besides, one week of rain, snow on the mountains, and temperatures below 10°C are not welcome in May, period). I spent lots of time in waiting rooms while Heimlich had his various appointments, so I did some sequining (is that a word ?) on Ursula's corset. It is coming along pretty nicely.
Things I still need to do :


  • make a formal request via email for the photoshoot

  • plan for 2d and 3rd shoot I want to make before going on vacation

  • clean the workshop, because I have a client coming in tomorrow morning and the place is a total mess. At least I have most dresses cleaned, ironed and bagged up. Just Lady Tremaine's silk overgown and Cruella because I wanted those to be handled by a pro...

I actually finished a few things recently, both from a 1922 pattern that I adapted somewhat. Thing number one is up on the blog. Thing number two has yet to be properly photographed.

mrs_maupin: (midona)

I got to sleep in for the first timein a month or so I think. Actually I even napped today. So not much work done, but hey ! It's Sunday !

I did start pinning the trim on the front of my top. And sent off my newsletter, and prepared another blog post. And vegged around an read some and did a tinylittle bit of cooking. And I'm off to bed again.

mrs_maupin: (midona)

.... but I did not stop very far from it. Today was busy and productive.

I woke up early by myself, had breakfast while working on some web stuff, and finished trimming the back of my top. After that I had a phone call with a client, then we went to the market for a tiny bit of cheese and poultry - since we have lots of veggies still in the fridge, today's trip was fairly minimal.
There were talks of going on a hike, but my period di'nt agree with that, so it ended up being yardwork. We got one half of the hedges rimmed down, and most of the subsquent mess cleared.
Then I had just enough time to take a shower, and say hi to friend who opened her shop in the town center. while I was at it, I grabbed flyers for next week's craft fair and an invisible zipper foot for my sewing machine.

I am rather content with myself tonight. And slightly amused because my Clue app really doesn't have the right type of exercise for me. No "hiking", no "yardwork", no "running back and forth between sewign machine and ironing table". I'll just have to randomly assign those between "yoga", "running" and "cycling", I guess.

May. 19th, 2016 10:31 pm

I sewed !

mrs_maupin: (midona)

I wrote a bit, too, finished putting some order through the 600+ pictures the Home geek took on Sunday (I am SO GLAD I forgot my SD card on Saturday. Seriously), pnanned a bit ahead on my blog posts,  dropped fabric samples at the dry cleaner's for them to check what they can do for poor Cruella, and picked up the high-res files from Mareva's pictures. Started planning a photoshoot or two, discussed a collaborative project...

And hemed the 1920's inspired top that was laying around in the workshop. Tomorrow I want to finish trimming it - because I thought it was a bit too simple and missed something. But I also have to make a bow tie or a necktie for Heimlich. I can't find our Gryffindor one and it's an adult tie anyway. We tried the HG's weddign tie on him and it looks ridiculous - so he needs a new ne for the school's show tomorrow evening. Not really "needs", but he seems to really, really want one, and I just don't have it in my heart to disappoint him.

So, plan of attack for tomorrow :
- make a bow tie, or a tie, or both and let him choose
- finish the 1920's inspired top
- finish a blog post and write the weekly newsletter
- make a rhubarb tart ?

Edited to add : - catch up on GoT before I get the whole episode spoiled to me. Ties and handsewing is good in front of the computer/TV anyway.

mrs_maupin: (midona)

WOOOOHOOO !

I can breathe and sleep in. Or at least I coudl sleep in, bu tmy body insists on waking up as early as on the runway days becaus eI have so many idea running through my head. Photoshoots, new dresses... I'll talk more about it later, fr now, here is just a sample of the first pictures I recieved :


Grands méchants de contes de fées, mai 2016
More under the cut )
I am over the moon with the pictures I got this far. I still have to go through the ones the Home Geek took on Sunday, and I don't have the official pictures or video yet. It was AWESOME !
mrs_maupin: (midona)

I am finally seeing it ! With so much gratitude to [livejournal.com profile] heileen, who did a hell of a lot of handsewing today and yesterday.

Effie has a strap to puther train up. Lady Tremaine is done and swishy. Very swishy. Milady not only has a new button on the skirt, but also a chemise and a jacket.

Technically, I need to finish applying trim to the jacket and add buttons. Then I am done and can bedazzle some things - sequins, sparkle... we'll see what can be done tomorrow morning, because we go put everything up in the late afternoon and I know packing the car will take a while.

mrs_maupin: (midona)

Yesterday :
- patterning and cutting out Milady's jacket. For a while I had forgotten how much I love the part where it goes from a simple patern to allt he pieces to the shell sewn together. It becomes a real something so fast ! I actually almost forgot to go pick up the kids while doing it...
- ottoman. I just love ottoman, even if it's the synthetic stuff
- [livejournal.com profile] heileen being the best personal cheerleader in the world over FB chat. I'll almost forgive her the mention of 18th century  cat fur muffs. Almost.

Today :
- yay [livejournal.com profile] heileen is coming!  Yayayay !
- cheddar. I went to the market since we won't be able to go on Saturday, and the Wednesday market is a little pice of heaven, with fresh pasta, italian rice balls, fresh strawberries that smell heavenly, and cheese. Lots of cheese. And fresh apple juice, too.

May. 5th, 2016 12:49 pm

Cabin fever

mrs_maupin: (midona)

It's gorgeous outside, the sun is shining, most of the snow has melted, there ar eflowers... I want to go on a hike or play with my pois or something ! I think we are going out this afternoon. work will have to wait.

I am feeling rather good regarding the runway show. I have started putting together Cruella's bodice, and the model has gotten back to me so I have her measurements - turns out she was in hospital when I first tried reaching her, so that delayed things a bit. So far, the charmeuse and georgette are behaving nicely, I hope they keep doing so.

Apr. 27th, 2016 10:49 pm

Pictures

mrs_maupin: (midona)
I took some time to upload the last pictures I took in the workshop/living room, type a quick update on the blog, and thought I could share some detail shots here.
Patronnage et raccords de motifs Robe de mariée corsetée, détail
Corset pour robe de mariée gothique Robe de mariée paillettes et glamour

I have added padding to Ursula's corset, and sewn down the tentacle-looking voile pieces. Finishing the edges (even with the machine) and sewing them on took over most of my sewing time today. Wait, all of it actually, because the one seam I finished on Effie was stolen from meal prep before dinner (thanks to the Home Geek for boiling water, and to the italian fresh pasta booth at the market this morning).

On the flip side, I stocked up on super-yummy cheese, found tasty strawberries, and Heimlich had a swimming lesson that went really well. And Ursula is ready to walk  in theory she should get a shoulder pieces of strings of seed beads, but I need the seed beads to be there befor ethe show for that. No news on this front yet, so it's still in limbo.

mrs_maupin: (midona)

Why on Earth did I think assembling Effie would be easy ? This dress is going to be the death of me and I'm not even sure I like it. It'd better look good on the model. And fit, because I don't have much wiggle room.
IMG_20160415_174300 IMG_20160416_191434
My dummy is sooo not the right shape for this dress, too.

Of course, I am now behind on my schedule. This wasn't helped by the fact that I actually slept in yesterday (yay ! catching up on sleep ! finally !), and that we had to run some errands, like replacing our old mattress. New fancy mattress was found and ordered, so that's cool. But I didn't get to actually work before 4PM, which is not so good.

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